Antonio Grimaldi FW16

interview by Lynzi Judish

photos by Diego Armando Diaz

Clothes that follow and accompany the body, sheath dresses below the knee, clingy lines in technical Cady reminiscent sportswear, reinterpreted with a new sensuality. Revealing the back thanks to the cuts measured interlocking and a mix of textures such as neoprene and wire mesh, for a tromp l’oeil effect experimental. For the collection ready to wear fall-winter 2016-17 “Urban Seventies” Antonio Grimaldi is inspired by Italian trans, artistic movement of the second half of the seventies, in which a return to craftsmanship and the use of color, they become the ideal counterpart the conceptualism of the previous decade. Not only artistic research, according to the designer’s tradition, but also the study of shapes and patterns, buildings that look at ” Radical Architecture “and Rem Koolhaa creative genius and his manifesto” Delirious New York. ” In the essay, Koolhaa explains how, even if the architectures of the Big Apple are not the result of a particular planning, congestion of styles and forms has nonetheless given rise to the contemporary. So the hand of the designer is guided by urban influences, made not only of detail but, in particular, the real design projects that translate into clothes.

 The autumn-winter signed Antonio Grimaldi sees mindress velvet flared shape, damask or organza worked with wool. The designer plays with the urban design effects, reframing, as they were targeted buildings, inserts pleated soleil. The soft hoods, also printed or stained effect, made with dyed fabrics, even hazy, become tactile seduction. Wool on organza, pleated are also of plush fabric, for a sportstyle effect. During the long, all-over printed, the designer proposes negatively and positively to grate prints, where the colors are reversed and alternate, while maintaining the common thread transavanguardista and experimental. In longdress, the collection must prevail metallic colors, the lame, the faded gold on turquoise, or even prints that evoke the typical hanging gardens of the urban architecture of Manatthan skyscrapers. In the color palette is no shortage white and absolute black, ruby ​​red and green musk to yellow ocher.

 

The velvet pleated alternate with longdress in tulle embroidered with crystals and jet. Three-dimensional organza in evening wear, where the edges, frayed effect, give way to light midi dresses, crepe de chine. The flared trousers in velvet, wool tweed or boucle black and white, as in the nail, and smoke gray metallic sequins color, draw near to velevt jacket work, characterized by organdie sleeves. The Pencil pleated drawstring embroidered on tulle, or damask, marry in contrast to the Seventies shirt printed with important sleeves. Look to combine with sandals or strictly adhering velvet boots.

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I know that you partially got your start working in tailor shops in Italy.  Beside practical knowledge like sewing, what was the most important lessons you learned from working as a tailor?

My passion for fashion began when I was a child. I was really interested in dresses looking at all celebrities wearing wonderful clothes in movies and on television.

I started really young looking at the dressmaker of my town, Salerno, in the south part of Italy. Then I’ve decided to study art at school because I’ve always been inspired by painters. And so my work started in a famous fashion house in Rome. After that I’ve founded with my creative partner a new fashion house and since 2010 I’ve my own label. I would like to specify that I’ve not worked as tailor but as couturier with dressmakers. The contact with their expertise is very important for a designer.

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fashion magazine fashion magazine

It was only some years ago that you decided to separate from Grimaldi Giardina. Can you let our readers know why? And since beginning a brand of your own, what would you say is the trademark of the line?

We decided to walk on different streets. Of course we started together after meeting each other when we worked for a famous fashion house in Rome as assistants of the creative director. After some years of projects together we decided to separate for a different aesthetic approach to fashion. I love Art, travel, and my personal point of view of glamour is reflected in my creation where lightness of the gowns is generally the must of my collections.

fashion magazine fashion magazine

fashion magazine fashion magazine

I know that rethinking feminine beauty while staying true to the classics is a large part of your label. Do you find it difficult to push the boundaries without straying from classical beautiful pieces?

I think that, in particular in Haute Couture collection, it is important to mix the tradition, the beauty of the Italian craftsmanship with the contemporary technology. Without a research for the mood of a collection you cannot find the inspiration to create. As told before I love Art and I’m inspired by the world around me that I discover in my Journeys abroad. That’s a sort of rule for me, to combine the past and the present to let women discovering, in fashion, the future.

fashion magazine fashion magazine

fashion magazine fashion magazine

For you, who is the Antonio Grimaldi woman? What would her statement be?

Antonio Grimaldi women is a globetrotter, and of course she loves to find researched outfits to compose her wardrobe. She want to feel beautiful wearing a gown exclusively made for her like it happens in high fashion or she want to have particular and not conventional looks for every day, like it happens for my ready to wear collection.

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fashion magazine fashion magazine

You have some amazing prints in the latest collection, and colors as well.  How did you choose them?

In Art of course. I’m really passionate of painters, architecture, photography and when I go out and I go in a museum to see exhibitions, I come back in my office and I start thinking about the research for the prints that will compose my new collection.

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fashion magazine fashion magazine

 

Can you give us some insight into your next collection?

Top secret, but what I can say is that contemporary art inspirations will be the link in all my new creations.

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fashion magazine fashion magazine

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