by Jessica Watt

Self-proclaimed ‘fashion nerd’ and Japanese culture enthusiast, Milan-based Alessandro Biasi, founded A-lab Milano with the vision of communicating new visions and ideas inspired by something already known. The creative director’s 2018 collection focuses on linking traditional elements with experimentation, aiming to transform traditional tartan and floral backgrounds in a pop and distinctly urban pattern.

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Can you tell us a bit about yourself?

I love Art, industrial design and novels. I’m not the typical image people may have of a fashion designer. I’m quite shy; I don’t like parties. I really love my work and all the hidden things behind the fashion scene. My collections are inspired by my passion for videogames and sci-fi movies. I’m also a Star Wars and Japanese culture fan. To celebrate all these things, I dedicated a sweatshirt to all the people of OTAKU.

Can you tell us more about A-lab Milano?

A-Lab Milano is a women’s ready-to-wear brand, born and made in Italy, but it’s inspired by the world. The brand is designed for fashion lovers and not fashion victims. Thanks to continued research, I founded A-lab Milano with the idea of grouping different emerging designers who are always keen on trends, in a sort of studio we’ve created.

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What is the philosophy behind the brand?

I love to imagine and create different stories with regards to contemporaneity, through the prints and at the beginning of designing and through sculptural shapes. I followed my passions and it has evolved.

What was your inspiration to become a fashion designer?

There’s no real moment in my life where I realised I wanted to be a fashion designer. It happened naturally and I’m happy it happened this way. I was in love with great designers like John Galliano and Alexander McQueen and I thought I wanted to do exactly the same. The idea of designing something to make a woman feel unique was immediately appealing so I thought, yes, I’m ready for that!

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Who is part of the team within A-lab Milano?

The A-lab Milano crew is a medium sized family where I have the opportunity to compare my ideas in the lab-oratory which is the base of the concept of the brand. All our collections are created at the studio; the team and I work together on shapes, patterns, textile graphics and create special pieces in our workshop. We may have a graphic student that works together with a pattern maker or a great seamstress, from this they could potentially have a long career ahead of them. All the girls in our press office, the showroom staff and everyone that helps produce all our collections are involved in the growth of the brand.

 

For the 2018 FW collection, what will your collection consist of and be inspired by?

In this collection, I was very surprised to find unexpected references to the past as I’m usally projected towards the future. I’ve concentrated my research on new soft lines, underlined by colored laces and drawstrings that create and re-design the silhouettes, as I love highlighting the waistline. More than ever, I worked on contrast: coats inspired by sportswear. The most feminine blouse is made in techno-satin and the bi-stretch wools are embellished with delicate embroidery on the collars. I’ve played with our logo – yes, I love our sign! – putting it on sweatshirts, t-shirts, scarves and even socks. In an historical moment of deep mergers and contaminations, subcultures rise quickly to trends for the masses, and contestation movements are melting into new elites. I wanted to represent the Urban Flower as the unexpected, the out-of-context element that assumes the character of uniqueness, like the woman to whom A-lab Milano is dedicated. A woman who, despite living in an era linked to routine and homologation, manages to maintain and claim her identity, style and intellect.

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How do you want women to feel wearing your designs?

I hope women wearing my designs feel free, strong and independent.

What do you believe are essential skills to be a successful creative director?

A conscious vision and strong identification of fashion are fundamental characteristics for a good creative director. As well as the ability to grasp the desires of the market and its facets. Now, trends and fashion are really quick and we have to run to stay ahead of them!

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What designer or brand inspire you personally and the brand?

After Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, who I consider as mentors and masters, I really appreciate the work of Nicolas Ghesquière and his extraordinary evolution. In Italy, the brand I really like at the moment is SPORTMAX. I consider the brand very interesting and contemporary.

 

Milan is regarded as one of the world’s most influential fashion capitals. Do your designs reflect the style in Milan?

Despite the name of the brand and my great love for this city, the designs aren’t completely inspired by Milan. Generally, it’s for a woman deeply linked to urban dynamics. I took the industriousness and passion for work and effiency from the lifestyle in Milan.

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In creating your brand, what have you learnt along the way?

Over the years I have learned many things and I’m still learning. The most important thing I’ve learned is not to get overwhelmed by bad times, and to strenuously advance my goals, ideals and my dreams.

 

How do you believe social media has shaped the fashion industry today?

I think at the beginning it was very positive because it’s allowed many small fashion, art and design brands to get noticed. It’s still easy to start, but it’s very difficult to emerge. The digital world is homologating the audience sensibility and has restricted the opportunities to shape an opinion. I think we’re giving too much importance to the popularity, at the expense of quality and creativity.

 

Where do you see A-lab Milano in 5 years?

All my collections are projected towards the future and the vision is very important for me. I don’t like to think of the future; I’m focused on the present and this makes me enjoy each day. Tomorrow is always a beautiful surprise.

 Editorial fashion, fashion magazine, fashion magazines, fashion magazines that accept submissions, fashion magazine submissions, fashion magazine submissions, fashion publication, Jute Fashion Magazine, Jute Magazine, Jute Mag, online fashion magazine, online fashion publication, online magazine, submissions, submission magazine, submission fashion magazine, style, fashion, editorial, model, New York, NYC, New York Magazine, NYC fashion magazine, New York fashion magazine, Milan, Italy, A-lab Milano, Alessandro Biasi, Jessica Watt

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